Monday, May 19, 2014

CSI: Elmira

by Kelli Huggins, Education Coordinator

Attention bigwigs at CBS (since I know all of you read our blog)!  I have the perfect idea for your next, inevitable CSI spin-off: CSI: Elmira.  Yes, a CSI show set in Elmira, NY.  More specifically, late 19th century Elmira.

Now, I know this might sound strange, but hear me out.  Elmira was at the forefront of a lot of early forensic science and had a whole host of colorful characters that would translate well to television.

Every one of these crime shows needs a delightfully eccentric scientist character.  Well, allow me to introduce you to Dr. Thaddeus Up de Graff (a name perfect for TV).  Dr. Up de Graff, a Civil War veteran, was a prominent surgeon in Elmira.  He hung out with many local luminaries, including Mark Twain (can't you just imagine the great Twain cameos that could be in this series?).  He also was one of the founders of the Elmira Microscopical Society.  
Dr. Up de Graff.  That beard!  That hair!  Made for TV!
It was his interest in microscopes that leads us to an anecdote that would make a great episode.  In 1884, Dr. Up de Graff was a star witness in a murder trial in Wellsboro, PA.  In that case, he was credited with providing the testimony that led to the man's conviction.  Why was his testimony so important, you ask?  Dr. Up de Graff claimed to be one of only four people in the world that could tell the difference between human and dog blood.   After examining the size of blood corpuscles, he determined that the blood was human.  The story of the trial was published in all of the leading science and medical journals of the time.  Some scoffed at Dr. Up de Graff's claim, stating that only under perfect conditions could human blood be microscopically told from dog blood.  Still, Dr. Up de Graff maintained that "the superior character of his glasses" and his $1,600 microscope made this possible.

In addition to microscopes, Elmirans were experimenting with other early forensic technologies.  In 1898, Dr. Frank Ward Ross wrote an essay on the use of x-ray photographs as evidence in court cases.  X-ray technology was introduced just a few years earlier, so many understandably doubted the reliability of this new wonder to accurately depict reality.  Dr. Ross wrote that strict measures for taking and developing these images needed to be followed (can't you just see Dr. Ross as the perfect straight man counterpart to a more zany, dog blood-identifying character?).  
Late 1890s x-ray of a wrist and hand

Due to these issues, Elmira's courts and judges had never allowed photographic evidence to be used in a criminal trial.  Dr. Ross had, however, been able to testify using x-rays when discussed in conjunction with a report of physical examination.  For example, he recounted the time he had used x-rays to conclusively prove that a bullet was not still lodged in a suspect's arm.  X-ray doubters did have a point, though.  As you can see in these period x-ray images from our Van Aken glass plate negative collection, this was far from an exact science.
Foot x-ray
Skull x-ray
 
Elmira also had no shortage of lurid crimes that would be perfect for that "ripped from the headlines" approach that so many crime shows take.  The newspapers were filled with tales of the latest scandalous murder, assault, arson, or other crime.  These stories also frequently came with pictures of the gruesome events.  You see, before there were crime scene photos, there were crime scene drawings.  Below are two early 1890s examples:



 
The police (and the press) also were interested in an early form of ballistics.  This illustration compares a pistol cartridge with the bullet pulled from a murdered man's skull:
 
 
To conclude my pitch, this is just a sampling of ways that Elmirans were at the cutting-edge of grappling with crime around the end of the 19th century.  And there is more where these came from (we didn't even get to discuss the characters on the police force or the first female coroner!).  So, when you TV producers decide you want to turn this into a pilot, give me a call and I'm on the first flight out to Hollywood.    

 










Monday, May 12, 2014

Disposable Fashion

by Erin Doane, Curator

In 1966, Scott Paper Company launched a marketing stunt that sparked a huge, though very short-lived, fashion trend – the paper dress.  If you sent $1.25 in to the company, you got back their “Paper Caper” dress and 52 cents worth of coupons for their other paper products like toilet paper and tissues.  The promotion was overwhelmingly successful.  They sold 500,000 paper dresses in just six months. 

Paper dress made by Paper Wear, Ltd. of Baltimore, Maryland
Paper dresses were not exactly made out of paper.  Most were made of a blend of 93% cellulose and 7% nylon to give them some degree of durability.  Some were made of cellulose reinforced with rayon with the brand name of “Dura-Weve.”  The garments could be worn more than once but cost so little that they could be easily thrown out if they tore or got stained.
 
Polyester and rayon fiber disposable dress
made by Fling-Things of Philadelphia
Hundreds of thousands of disposable garments were sold between 1966 and 1968. Lifeboy soap, Beck shampoo, and Pillsbury sold $1 paper dresses in promotions similar to that of the Scott Paper Company.  Paper dresses were sold at major department stores like Sears, Roebuck & Co. and J.C. Penney's and Saks Fifth Avenue opened a paper fashion department.  Even Hallmark got in on the trend by creating paper “hostess dresses” to match their paper party napkins and table cloths.
 
Silver disposable dress
The paper dress arrived on the market a precisely the right time.  The youth of the 1960s were turning away from the post-WWII value of durability in everything.  Disposable items like pens, lighters, plates, and cutlery were flooding the market and paper dresses seemed the next reasonable step.  The dresses themselves captured the youth culture of the time with bright colors and bold patterns and an easy, carefree silhouette.  Many believed that disposable fashion would take over the market because of the low price and convenience but by 1968 paper clothing had almost completely disappeared from the market.
 
Draper dress by Paper Ware, Ltd. of Baltimore, MD
So, why was the paper dress trend so short lived?  One might guess that the disposable nature of the dresses and the amount of waste that must have been produced might have played a part in the end but it didn’t really.  The trend probably ended because the dresses were ill-fitting, uncomfortable to wear, and the wonderfully bright colors could rub off.  Also, the dresses caught on fire very easily.  Some were treated with flame retardant to keep them from combusting.  While paper garments as fashion disappeared fairly quickly, the use of cellulose fabric continues today in disposable hospital gowns, scrubs, and coveralls.