by Erin Doane, Curator
There were a few dishes that were staples of
Thanksgiving dinners over the full span of the 50 years. Nearly every single
menu I found had turkey as its centerpiece, which was not a surprise at all. It
was, however, sometimes replaced by other meats (particularly during the Great
Depression). Almost all the menus also included pumpkin pie. Again, no surprise
there. I was a little surprised to see how common oysters were as part of the
meal, and delighted to find whole celery (a product of Horseheads in the early
1900s) was also quite popular.
Cranberries were also part of the vast majority of
menus I found. There was cranberry sauce, cranberry jelly, cranberry sherbet,
cranberry pudding, cranberry pie, or some other cranberry dish on nearly every
table in homes and in restaurants for Thanksgiving dinner. Many newspaper
articles included new ways to cook cranberries. But, in 1917, just seven months into the United States involvement in World War
I, cranberry sauce was declared taboo on the Thanksgiving menu. There was a
sugar shortage because of the war, so the New York Food Conservation Commission
discourage people from serving cranberry sauce at their dinners.
Wartime shortages were common again during World
War II. In 1943, articles reminded people that despite having to trim their
feasts, there were still plenty of traditional dishes that could be made with
slight modifications. Stuffing could be made with margarine instead of butter
and sweet potatoes could be cooked with molasses rather than sugar. And don’t
forget the green tomato pickles made from your own Victory Garden! Just after
the end of the war, articles continued to urge people to be respectful of what
food they had and not waste a single bite. They also provided a grand array of
recipes for leftover turkey.
Use your leftover turkey in a casserole, in a biscuit roll,
in a salad,
or in another dish listed in the Star-Gazette on November 24, 1947.
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In 1932, an article described a series of menus
with price points from $4.50 (about $85 today) to $0.75 (about $14 today) for a
family of six. The top-end menu included mushroom or tomato soup, toast sticks,
celery, roasted turkey with corn stuffing, giblet gravy, spiced peach relish,
mashed white potatoes, onions with nut stuffing, glazed squash, whole wheat and
white bread, rosy apple salad, pumpkin ginger pie or pumpkin custard for
children. The least expensive menu was a pot roast of beef cooked with apricots,
baked potatoes, creamed onions, and squash pie.
A Thanksgiving tradition that I’m sure we’re all familiar with popped up at the end of the 1932 article with the various menus – the kids’ table. Miss B. Dorothy Williams, an agent of the Chemung County Home Bureau, stated that, “undoubtedly the children will enjoy the meal more if they have a separate table then their conversation can proceed without interruption and both groups will have a better time.”
Another Thanksgiving tradition that many of us
still honor today is a full day of eating, rather than just one large sit-down
dinner. It seems that as soon as all the dishes are put away after the initial
feast and the kitchen is cleaned up, someone starts taking leftovers out of the
fridge for round two. If you would like to add a little more structure to your
all-day feasting, here are a couple of menus for Thanksgiving breakfast,
dinner, and supper you might enjoy.