Like
many people lately, I’ve become a fan of the PBS series Downton Abbey. The
characters and story are great but what I’ve really fallen in love with is the
clothes. For those unfamiliar, the
series follows the lives of an aristocratic English family, the Crawleys, and
their servants. The first season began
with the news of the sinking of the Titanic on April 15, 1912 and continued
through to the outbreak of the First World War on August 4, 1914. The second season took the household through
the war and to the end of the decade.
The
fashions of the Crawley women in the first season are what really caught my
eye. I have always been fond of the delicate
gowns of the early 1910s. Opulent is a word commonly used to
describe those years before the First World War and the term is very fitting
when specifically talking about the fashion.
It was a time of experimentation, with both the cut and drapery of
fabric and with materials. Designers
were taking inspiration from the exotic Middle and Far East. Corsets were loosened or discarded entirely
and layers of soft flowing fabrics were decorated with silver and gold
stitching, tiny beads and spangles, and all sorts of decorative trims and
embroidery.
All
these details made gorgeous gowns but, unfortunately, also made them very
fragile. Over time, the weight of the
decorations can pull apart the fine weave of the fabrics. Trims and beads can catch on each other and
careless handling through the years can cause unintended damage. It is fairly rare to find one of the
diaphanous gowns from the early 1910s in pristine condition. I wonder sometimes if the designers and
seamstresses at the time realized that their creations were so ephemeral. It sort of makes sense that the almost
frivolous opulence of such gowns could only last a short time.
Careful
handling of fragile gowns is essential to their longevity, as is proper
storage. Limiting exposure to light and
maintaining an environment with constant, appropriate temperature and humidity
levels also helps preserve them for a longer time. Here at the Museum, we are working to get
digital images of our textile collection so that the gowns can remain
undisturbed as much as possible. We may not
be able to entirely stop these lovely, intricate, vice-ridden creations from
deteriorating but we can slow the process so that future generations can enjoy
the beauty of these fashions.