By Kelli Huggins, Education Coordinator
The mysterious banana photo, c. 1900 |
For years I have been trying to figure out the historical explanation
for this unusual banana photograph in our collection (and by “trying” I mean
periodically thinking that I should look into it and then forgetting). I simply
couldn’t understand why a single Elmira fruit dealer around the turn of the 20th century would have that many bananas in stock. I mean, how could they possibly sell them
all before they spoiled? Was there really that big of a market for bananas here? Well, I think I’ve finally cracked the code.
A fruit dealer with a far more sensible amount of banana merchandise, c. 1895. |
Bananas were available in the US after the Civil War, but they
were at first expensive and a luxury. They cost a dime each, about $2 today. They
were sold peeled and cut so that their shape would not offend prudish
Victorians. By the 1870s, large-scale banana importation began, with American
ships sailing to the Caribbean and South America for product. As refrigerated
shipping increased the quantities of bananas on the market, prices dropped and
they became a normal part of many American’s diets. They were billed as a
nutritional powerhouse, particularly for poor families.
This 1894 Elmira price listing shows that banana prices were decreasing, but still weren't the cheapest food. |
In the 1890s, smaller importers merged to create United Fruit
Company, which dominated the market, squashing competition and putting pressure
on small fruit retailers. The new banana trust was importing around 12 million
bunches of bananas a year by 1900 and their monopoly allowed them to bully
small businesses.
In Elmira, fruit dealers felt the pressure. They were charged
exorbitant fees for the product and were forced to purchase more bananas than
they wanted or could sell. Local merchants were forced to sign a contract to
receive 300 bunches every week for the entire year. One anonymous fruit dealer
said, “There is absolutely no redress for the merchant. And you must take the
kind they ship you. Some of the bunches have to be thrown away because of
decay.” This pressure forced some local dealers out of the banana game and
ultimately led to a scarcity of bananas in the city by 1903.
Headline from the Elmira Star-Gazette, April 20, 1903. |
The
P. Laskaris and Brothers “Greek Fruit Dealers” shop in the photograph likely
signed one of these unfair banana trust deals. They opened this shop in 1889
and sold fruit, candy, ice cream, and soda. And bananas. Lots and lots of
bananas.